How I Make a CNC & Lasered 3D Flag
From file download to finished product I detail how I make my draped style lasered flags! My hope this is helpful for many to start making 3D projects!
Step 1: Download the files. Our site has over 2750 files and we’re adding to it all the time! The draped model was made by D&J Creations and is available on all plans on our site. The 3D viking file was purchased from 3d Wave.
Step 2: Import the files into aspire/vcarve pro. There are other programs but this is what we use. I size my workspace in aspire to match my material - in this case 48” wide by 20” tall by 3/4” thick. I use funiture grade russian baltic birch from a local lumber yard, it has 19 layers of ply in 3/4 with no voids (the baltic ply at home depot and lowes will not work due to the poor quailty.) After importing the models size and arrange on the workspace.
Step 3: I outline the models and export the SVG file to use for lightburn later. This gives me exact vector lines around the center viking.
Step 4: Toolpath generation - I skip rouging and for this project am using a 1.5 mm ball nose bit at 7% stepover, 125 IPM feed rate, and 100 plunge rate. Total time estimated was 10 hours, actual was closer to 7. That is a long time but this is a big flag with a small bit due to the detail needed for the viking. For my draped flags without a center 3D component I use a 1/4” ball nose bit and it takes closer to 2 hours. I use a downcut 1/4” endmill for my profile cut at 0.05-0.1” per pass removed. I send the toolpath with UGS to my machine which is a CNC4Newbie and run it.
Step 5: I sand the edges with an orbital sander smooth and use 220 grit on the surface of the flag. Very little sanding was needed. I then use sanding sealer and sand with 220 grit again to knock of the raised grain. After one more coat of sanding sealer I use 350 grit sandpaper for a super smooth finish. The sanding sealer makes it very smooth but also acts as a barrier for the paint to not soak in and the laser to not burn the wood as much.
Step 6: I use rustoleum x2 matte black spray paint. I have used color paint but black is my preference and does burn off better. After 2 coats and a few hours to dry I use 000 ultra fine steel wool over the high points that give it a brushed bronze look. After that it’s ready for the laser.
Step 7: Using exported outlines from the 3D models I upload them into Adobe Illustrator to edit the draped “cracked looked” flag file. This profiles the outline of the viking perfectly. This file is then saved and uploaded into Lightburn for the laser.
Step 8: I select the outside border and seperate it from the rest of the svg. This is one by right clicking and selecting “ungroup” and then added to its own seperate layer. With only that layer selected I burn the outline into my wasteboard in order to center my piece. As shown in the video I also select a few vectros that surround the center model and use the laser at 1% to show where the path will be withut marking the piece. This ensures its perfectly placed. To focus the laser I initally ran a ramp test and made a wood block that is the perfect focus for my laser. I place it about halfway beteen the tallest and lowest points on the waves.
Step 9: With the entire svg selected minus the outside border (removed) I set my fill parameteres. I start at 4500 mm/sec for my Neje 30w laser, 75% power, 2% overscan, and 0.09 line interval. Home the machine and press start. I watch how well its removing the pain and adjust speed/power with the move tool in lightburn, typically bumping up both the speed and power in 10% intervals a couple of times.
Step 10: Once its off the laser I appply two coats of satin enamel clear coat and its done!
